The Golden Beach is a typical high-energy coast without barrier, with wind ripples being developed in the backshore and wave ripples in the upside of the nearshore and swales in the foreshore. This paper analyzes the morphology, the sediment granularity and the hydrodynamic conditions of these three kinds of ripples developed in different environments, and it is found that, 1) The wind ripples in the backshore have a longer wavelength, a lower wave height, but a bigger ripple index as compared to the wave ripples. Both the wavelength and the scale of the wave ripples increase from the land to the sea. 2) For the wind ripples, it is the crest sediments that contain more coarse grains, while for the wave ripples, it is the valley sediments that contain more coarse grains, and the coarse grains increase their number from the backshore to the foreshore. The sediments of the wind ripples and the wave ripples in the swale lack the suspension components. The frequency distributions of the ripple grain size in the backshore and the foreshore take bimodal forms, while the frequency distribution of the ripple grain size in the upside of the nearshore takes a unimodal form. Using the sorting-kurtosis figure and the sorting-skewness figure of the ripple sediments, it is easy to distinguish the sedimentary environment. 3) The mean grain size of the sediments has a certain linear relationship with the flow velocity, the water depth and the Froude number Fr. According to the experimental results, the ripples in the foreshore formed in the falling tide indicate a weak hydrodynamic condition, which may be related to the quick change of the flow velocity and the water depth. 4) The regression equations between the sedimentary characteristics, the flow velocity and the water depth are obtained after the stepwise regression analyses.
YANG Junsheng
,
GE Yuzhu
,
WU Qiong
,
WANG Jing
,
WANG Miao
. Characteristics of Ripples both in Morphology and Sediments in Golden Beach Coastal Zone, Huangdao and the Relationship with Hydrodynamics[J]. Science & Technology Review, 2014
, 32(1)
: 22
-29
.
DOI: 10.3981/j.issn.1000-7857.2014.002
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